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Author Topic: Electric Screen how to...  (Read 4753 times)

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Offline Starsky

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Electric Screen how to...
on: 29 Jan 15, 11:48:29
First you will need the following -

1) Actuator like this (or similar but needs a moving arm)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-A6-C5-HEATER-FLAP-ARM-ACTUATOR-MOTOR-BOSCH-0132801140-1168800610-1691A-/221668591030




2) 2 x brackets of strong metal that will not bend in use but you wil need to manipulate them into position with a strong set of pliers - pic of same from Vance - plus bolts and locking bolts to affix this bracket.



3) About 1.2m of auto cable at least 2 core 5 amp

4) 2 x connectors like the smaller/thinner ones in the pic (middle lhs)



5) A car electric window switch (or any switch with 6 pins for reverse polarity)

6) Butt connector joints

7) Heatshrink wrap and cable ties to keep it tidy

8) Liquid tape and self amalgamating tape to insulate motor pins and waterproof the switch.

9) You will also need bullet connectors to connect into the auxilary connections on the left hand side fairing.

TOOLS - over and above your screwdrivers/hex sets for removing the fairings you will find the following handy -

a crimping tool, soldering iron, heat gun and also long cable ties and a self tapping screw.

I used two bits of auto cable with an old bike battery, that still  retains a bit of charge, for locating the actuator whilst moving the arm up and down to check travel and path etc. This worked out handy but you could just go direct to bike battery instead.






Last Edit: 29 Jan 15, 03:57:57 by Starsky
Amon Amarth - Mäktiga gudar, i gyllene salen...

#1

Offline mdr1970

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Re: Electric Screen how to...
Reply #1 on: 29 Jan 15, 12:26:59
Thanks for this so far!!!  :)
2014 Z1000sx Blacknificent Made in JAPAN, Perfected in the UK   :038:   :008:

#2

Offline Starsky

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Re: Electric Screen how to...
Reply #2 on: 29 Jan 15, 01:20:36
STEPS -

Remove the screen, clock surround, plastic top nose cover and both fairings. The first ones are straightforward enough, if you need help with the fairings see this thread -

https://www.z1000sx.co.uk/index.php/topic,162.0.html

Also remove the two springs from the button that locks the screen into place. Make sure this button is pushed down so it doesn't interfere with bracket. It will stay down ok.

Once all these have been removed, the next step is to replace a bolt on the screen bracket as shown -

Last Edit: 29 Jan 15, 02:58:20 by Starsky
Amon Amarth - Mäktiga gudar, i gyllene salen...

#3

Offline Starsky

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Re: Electric Screen how to...
Reply #3 on: 29 Jan 15, 01:22:10
The replacement should be a 4mm bolt and log enough to protude out towards the right hand side of the bike so that the bracket and a locking nut can be added.
Amon Amarth - Mäktiga gudar, i gyllene salen...

#4

Offline Starsky

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Re: Electric Screen how to...
Reply #4 on: 29 Jan 15, 01:25:38
Referring to the picture below - Place your motor on top of the coolant tank and wedge it as close to the bracket that the mirrors bolt onto (I had my nose cowl removed for respray - makes it easier but a real pain to take off). ENSURE THE ARM OF THE ACTUATOR IS IN IT'S LOWEST POSITION AND THE SCREEN BRACKET IS IN LOWEST POSITION (this is where the spare 12v battery came in handy).

Bracket 1 should be fixed tight to the screen bracket, Bracket 2 linking the actuator arm to bracket 1 should be able to rotate around bolts 3 and 4 with locking nuts applied. Bolt 4 is a 2mm and I used 2 nuts to lock as couldn't readily get a locking one that size. This was the size of the hole in the actuator arm. Bolt 3 can be whatever size fits the bracket holes you have here but again needs a locking nut.

Test with power applied to the actuator. There will be a row of 3 fine pins and then a row of 2 in the actuator socket housing. Take care with these as they could be easily broken, rendering your actuator practically useless. The 2 are the ones needed - it does not matter which has pos+ or neg- applied - they are reverse polarity so swap leads over to move it up if needs be, holding the actuator steady (cable ties as shown or by hand) to make sure the brackets are angled ok and the screen bracket will push up with the arm movement. This is where you will need to hold the clock surround up to where it normally goes to make sure the travel does not touch it or the nose but it can be manipulated slightly with strong pliers. It's a bit trial and error this bit so be patient.

http://youtu.be/3WX5YR55bdE
Last Edit: 29 Jan 15, 01:53:30 by Starsky
Amon Amarth - Mäktiga gudar, i gyllene salen...

#5

Offline Starsky

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Re: Electric Screen how to...
Reply #5 on: 29 Jan 15, 01:44:53
Once you are happy that the arm can travel up and down unhindered past the clock surround and the nose cowl - secure the actuator into position. I used self tapping screws into the thick plastic of the coolant tank (not the container part - the top solid bit that bolts to the frame). Mine is a 2012 and doesn't have the spare bracket that Vance referred to in his write up. If you have that bracket even better but as I say, self tapping screws and a couple of cable ties have it bound tightly in place .

Once that's all done - time to wire up....


Last Edit: 29 Jan 15, 02:59:52 by Starsky
Amon Amarth - Mäktiga gudar, i gyllene salen...

#6

Offline Starsky

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Re: Electric Screen how to...
Reply #6 on: 29 Jan 15, 02:25:53
Wiring diagram at bottom of post as per attachment. You could wire directly to battery instead of aux points but means someone could play with your screen whilst unattended so definitely recommend the aux points for this. It's simple enough. Just make sure the connectors you use onto the actuator pins are secure and wrap tape around the top of the socket housing to stop any movement within. It doesn't matter which pin is pos or neg in this but if you find a press of your switch to left makes the switch go up and would rather it made it go down, simply swap the wires on the two pins over. Make sure the switch operates on reverse polarity though - electric window switches should do already like so (6 pins) -




I routed the wiring around the front and run along with the loom beind the indicator relay and dropped down to the auxilary power points with the rest of the wires. There's a flexible bracket holding a load of wires together at the bolt for the  nose fairing so use that to secure and keep tidy. You can see these - bracket loom and auxilary points in the photo I have 'borrowed' from whyhaveone  :164:

blue&white - positive / black&yellow negative.



Just wire up as per the diagram below and locate the switch where you find it's easiest reached and can be secured. I put mine as per the pic and was able to use the heated grip wires and cable ties to secure. The plastic surround means I can't push it out of place and its very secure. Make sure to waterproof with liquid tape and self amalgamating tape. I can operate the screen with one finger in this position and find it ideal.

Think that's all  :164: Hopefully that's all straightforward enough - any questions just ask.  :820:

p.s. I have been asked to price up kits for sale - if anyone would like one done up please PM me as I could then see how much parts would be for a bulk order.  :828:
Last Edit: 29 Jan 15, 04:39:15 by Starsky
Amon Amarth - Mäktiga gudar, i gyllene salen...

#7

Offline mvangel

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Re: Electric Screen how to...
Reply #7 on: 29 Jan 15, 07:10:04
 :460:
To be complete, would recommend posting video of working screen
if there is s will there is a way!

#8

Offline Starsky

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Re: Electric Screen how to...
Reply #8 on: 29 Jan 15, 07:22:47
There's one on the other thread but here you go -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9FsZbEyXl3k

 :002:
Amon Amarth - Mäktiga gudar, i gyllene salen...

#9

Offline Briang710

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Re: Electric Screen how to...
Reply #9 on: 29 Jan 15, 07:23:45
Cheers Starsky, good job  :028:

 


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